From a wildlife-rich jungle and beach escape to a historic mansion within reach of Sri Lanka's cultural triangle, Uga Escapes offers unforgettable experiences
Words: Jonathan Whiley
Uga Ulagalla, Anuradhapura
Click, click, kapow! It's breakfast time at Uga Ulagalla, a sprawling five-star resort in Thirappane, in the North Central Province of Sri Lanka, and a waiter is patrolling the terrace. Thieves are lurking on the sun-dappled rooftops: opportunist monkeys with a particular taste for bread and pastries. A harmless blank round and the occasional firecracker aimed at the horizon stops them from swooping down as we enjoy our hoppers – traditional bowl-shaped Sri Lankan pancakes made from fermented rice flour. This becomes our daily early morning entertainment; kicking back in a 150-year-old mansion once home to a village chieftain before we set off to explore Sri Lanka's cultural triangle.
Ulagalla is perfectly located for seeing some of the country's most famous and historic sights. It's a 45-minute drive from the ancient city of Anuradhapura (dating back to 377BC and home to mystical moonstones, towering stupas and the oldest historically documented tree in the world) and just over an hour to Sigiriya Rock Fortress, the Unesco world heritage site built by King Kashyapa with more than 1,200 steps to the top.
Guests can also explore the local area, with a Nachchaduwa scenic drive that takes in ancient reservoirs, farmland and local villages before an essential G&T stop overlooking a lake (and if you are especially lucky, an elephant sighting – July to August is the peak). Back at the resort, there are 25 spacious villas each with pools) set amid 58 lush acres. Meals at the main house require a short, scenic cycle ride, easy stroll or a buggy pick-up. The food is good, with a local option always available; one evening is particularly memorable as we enjoy a Kamatha – authentic Sri Lankan dining experience – perched on cinnamon stick chairs amid a working paddy field, with a smorgasbord of fragrant local fare cooked in handmade clay pots over open wood fires.
Uga Riva, Negombo
Set in a coconut plantation near Negombo’s shores, this 180-year-old manor house is the ideal spot – a 30-minute drive from Colombo international airport – to kickstart or wind down any Sri Lankan adventure. It was once the home of a prominent Sri Lankan family where an assortment of dignitaries, including Mahatma Gandhi, stayed as guests. Now a seven-bedroom boutique with a landscaped garden and pool, it’s perfect for a one-night stopover to rest up after a long flight or to relax before a longer journey ahead. No matter where you venture in this vibrant island, Sri Lankan-based Uga Escapes is likely to have a luxury boutique. There are seven in total – Uga Jungle Beach is in the harbour town of Trincomalee, Uga Halloowella sits on a hilltop in the historic central tea trails region and its latest opening, Uga Prāva, is set on the shores of Tangalle, a 90-minute drive from Galle.
Uga Chena Huts, Yala
It’s not every day that an elephant comes for dinner. We’re deep in the jungle in Sri Lanka’s far south – mere miles from Yala national park – and a curious elephant has wandered in from the beach and is loitering next to reception. The rangers escort us and other curious guests to take pictures from a safe but close distance before we return to our meals. By moonlight, the elephant plods down the boardwalks towards the 18 thatch-roofed cabins spread across nine acres. When the time comes, rangers will lead us back to our spacious quarters.
Chena Huts is in an enchanting, unique location; tropical jungle on one side and an untamed beach where elephants emerge from the forest during sundowners on the other. Opened 10 years ago, this luxury hideaway features a private pool and decking, with each cabin ensconced amid the wilderness. There is also a large communal pool, poolside bar, spa and an excellent restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean, with a menu that spans “bush grill” to catch of the day and a traditional ambula, with an assortment of curries and sambols.
Best of all? The game drives, included in the all-inclusive rate, with Chena Huts a 10-minute drive from the main entrance to Yala national park. Although it can be very busy with vehicles jostling for prime position, the rewards are great. One morning we glimpse a leopard climbing a tree before encountering a family of playful elephants at a watering hole. The rain may have been heavy, but the memories are everlasting.
