Bairro Alto Hotel, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, is a five-star boutique with a rooftop that offers the best view in Lisbon

Words: Jonathan Whiley

Cards on the table; our stay could have got off to a smoother start. After a cheery check-in at Bairro Alto Hotel, there was a temporary mix-up with rooms and a brief period of head scratching at reception. No matter; apologies and a new room were soon offered (mistakes happen – the response is usually the critical marker) and soon we were sipping cocktails on the sun-dappled rooftop with killer views of the River Tagus.

Housed in a building that dates back to the 18th-century, this boutique hotel – a member of Leading Hotels of the World – is prized for its plum location in the heart of Lisbon. Set on the very edge of the hip Bairro Alto neighbourhood – think art galleries, artisan coffee and small bars aplenty – it’s perfectly placed to explore the steeped, cobbled streets of the Portuguese capital.

Its prime spot on the corner of the Praça Luís de Camões square – named after one of the country’s most renowned poets – means that you are within striking distance of Manteigaria and their famous pastel de natas (traditional Portuguese custard tarts). Guests who can’t contemplate the inevitable queue don’t have to go far; within the hotel there is an excellent pastelaria on the ground floor with an array of sweet creations (the pastel de nata is particularly good – a lighter version than the original recipe, owing to less fat and sugar).

Beyond the square you don’t need to stroll for long before you discover the popular Time Out market with its bewildering selection of street food options and Instagram-friendly Pink Street, where lively bars unfurl themselves under a canopy of umbrellas. First time to Lisbon? Vintage Tram 28 is a rickety but enjoyable way to navigate the neighbourhoods’ narrow mazes, while a jaunt on the water (by hiring a yacht or catamaran for an afternoon) is a chance to kick back and get a different perspective of this quaint city.

Back at the hotel, relax further at the wellness centre (sauna, sensory shower, dual treatment room), work out at the gym (Technogym equipment, including a Kinesis wall) or simply take in what has to be the finest view in Lisbon on the residents’ only sixth floor rooftop. One floor below is BAHR, a restaurant with a bustling terrace where guests and non-guests (it’s an equally popular spot for locals) can enjoy a la carte breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner.

Like much of the hotel – which having opened its doors in 2005, underwent a three-year renovation and reopened in 2019 – it blends modern touches with tradition and is comfortable and colourful without ever flirting with kitsch. Dinner on our final night is a highlight of our stay with a brigade in an open-kitchen confidently putting their own spin on Portuguese dishes to produce innovative creations that span Iberian pork, broad beans, chorizo and cockles to a dessert of dulce de leche and caramel mousse with Aperol and tangerine granita. Delicious and with bags of personality; independent luxury hospitality at its best and – perhaps – a reminder it’s not always how you start, but how you finish.

Bairro Alto Hotel