November's Dish of the Month: Atul Kochhar

The much-lauded chef and owner of Kanishka reveals his favourite autumnal dish

November's Dish of the Month: Atul Kochhar

Lamb Wellington

The Lamb Wellington is one of my favourite items from the Kanishka menu. This dish brings together two things I love about cooking: exceptional British produce and the depth of flavour that Indian spices can bring. The tender Romney Marsh lamb, golden pastry, Kadahi duxelles and a richly-spiced rogan jus come together beautifully. It’s a British classic with Indian elements layered throughout, and that balance is what makes it so special to me.

•The Lamb Wellington Experience (£160 for two) is available at Kanishka now. Start with a selection of snacks, followed by Meen Malabar, featuring turbot served with a creamy sauce, then the lamb Wellington, sliced and served tableside, accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a perfectly spiced rogan jus. Finish off with vanilla panna cotta, followed by Atul’s take on the classic British bread and butter pudding.

Recipe

Ingredients

Lamb loin (trimmed) - 800 g (200 g per person)

Ginger garlic paste - 40 g

Garam masala - 7 g

Red chilli powder - 2 g

Salt - to taste

Oil - 2 tbsp (neutral, sunflower or canola)

Kadahi duxelles

Button mushrooms - 300 g, finely chopped

Onion - 1 small, finely chopped

Garlic - 3 cloves, minced

Green chilli - 1, finely chopped (adjust heat)

Ginger - 1 tbsp, minced

Garam masala - 1 tsp

Ground coriander - 1 tsp

Ground cumin - ½ tsp

Red chilli powder - ½ tsp (optional)

Fresh coriander leaves - 2 tbsp, chopped

Oil - 2 tbsp

Salt - to taste


Swiss chard layer

Swiss chard leaves - 6-8 large, washed & stems removed

Turmeric - ¼ tsp

Salt - a pinch


Pastry assembly

Puff pastry - 2 large sheets (ready rolled)

Egg yolk - 1, beaten with 1 tbsp milk (for egg wash)


Rogan gravy

Lamb stock - 500 ml (unsalted, preferably homemade)

Oil - 1 tbsp

Onion - 1 small, finely sliced

Garlic - 3 cloves, crushed

Ginger - 1 tbsp, sliced

Green cardamom - 2 pods, lightly crushed

Cloves - 3

Black peppercorns - 6

Cinnamon stick - 1 small (about 4 cm)

Bay leaf - 1

Ground cumin - ½ tsp

Ground coriander - ½ tsp

Kashmiri chilli powder - ¼ tsp

Salt - to taste


Method

Prepare the lamb loin

Pat lamb loin dry, season generously with ginger garlic, garam masala, salt. Heat oil in a heavy pan until very hot. Sear lamb on all sides (about 1-2 min per side) for a nice crust. Remove from heat, set aside to cool completely. Make the Lamb duxelles. Heat ghee in a pan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger, and chilli; sauté until soft. Add minced lamb, breaking it apart as it cooks. Stir in mushrooms and cook until all moisture evaporates. Add garam masala, coriander powder, cumin and red chilli powder. Cook for 2-3 more minutes, season with salt, stir in fresh coriander, and cool completely.

Prepare the Swiss chard

Bring a pot of water to the boil with turmeric and a pinch of salt. Blanch chard leaves for 10-15 seconds, then plunge into ice water. Pat dry thoroughly, brush lightly with ghee.

Assemble the Wellington

Lay cling film on the work surface. Arrange Swiss chard leaves overlapping to form a rectangle. Spread the duxelles evenly over the leaves. Place the cooled lamb loin in the centre and roll tightly using the cling film. Chill for 15 minutes to firm up. Roll out puff pastry slightly larger than your lamb roll. Remove cling film, place lamb on pastry, wrap tightly, seal edges. Brush with egg wash, score lightly for decoration. Chill again for 15 minutes.

Bake the Wellington

Preheat oven to 200°C (390°F). Bake for 12 minutes for medium-rare (internal temp ~42°C), or longer if desired. Rest 10 minutes before slicing.

Make the masala lamb jus

Heat ghee in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger; cook until caramelised. Add cardamom, cloves, peppercorns, cinnamon and bay leaf; sauté 30 seconds. Stir in cumin, coriander, and Kashmiri chilli powder. Pour in lamb stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 15-20 minutes until reduced by half. Stir in tamarind pulp and jaggery, simmer for two more minutes. Strain through a fine sieve.

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